Chassis Time!!!

Well the long long wait has finaly paid off!!! I loaded the car up and went on my way down to AK for the chassis collection. Now with Audi wanting over £1800 to fit a tow bar to my A4 avant, and cost of trailler hire on-top, i decided to get the chassi deliverd by a fella who was recomended by Jon from AK. So after arranging details with him and a cost of £300 was agreed (fricken bargin) I still took a trip to AK to pick up some bits and exchange some parts (wishbones/drive shafts)

So with the kettle full, and the bacon ready, i called some mates and got them round to help with the lifting and shifting. Unfortunatly most of my mates are all alcoholics and with the delivery from Geroge being early doors i had to go and pick them all up, bar Simon who luckly for me wasnt drinking stupid amounts of beer the night prior.

So first off was the body, which was considrably lighter than i thought it would be... thank goodness. I only have limited space so the body was going to be stored by my veg patch in the front garden. This is not an ideal solution however its eather that, or left on the drive for the world and his wife to see.

So with the body sorted and under a tarp, onto the chassis. An amazing bit of kit... and bloody heavy. My garage is round the other side of the house and unfortunatly the 4x4 and trailer wouldnt get anywhere near, so it was good old muscle power, and carry it round to the garage along with all the extra bits i had orderd.

So now the serious build can start and hopefully progress on a weekly basis, so be sure to check here for updates and more of the build.

I like to cut things fine!!!

Well everyone thinks i'm insane attempting this build in a single garage, and they would be right. And i did initialy get some builders round to extend the back wall of my pokey garage to give me some extra room. But after one builder wanting over £1800, and one guy doing the whole "well i can do it, but it wont be easy... or cheep (and i dont rearly want to do it)." One bloke coming to have a look, then dissapiered of the face of the earth!!! hope he's ok. And one guy who said he could do it at a good price... but i lost his number.

Well with chassie collection on the 13th Feb, i though fook it, i'll have to manage with what i have....untill i get a knock on the door (lucky i was in) on the 20th Jan from John. He asked if i still wanted it doing to which i said yes, but he'll have to be quick as the chassie go's in, in a couple of weeks.... so he started Monday 25th and its now finished!!



Day 1. Blockwork start



Day 2. Blockwork finished


Day 3. Plywood roof ready for felt.


Day 4. Knock through and floor/Felt roof


Day 5. Clear away rubble and jobs a goodun.


Very pleased with his work, and have added much needed space to my build area (some where to store my block and box at least)

Hats off to Por-15

Wow is all i can say, this stuff is truly amazing stuff. I'm so glad i didnt stick with a Hammerite finish, this stuff is 1 million times stronger and cosmeticly looks better also.







Just a little cleaning of inside the yoke's for the end caps of the UJ's, and also for the bush's on the wishbones, but jobs a good un, and donner gear is done...phew!!!

More Donor

Well i hope i'm getting to the end of the seriously dirty dirty work now, i feel like i'v been knee deep in old oil and crap forever (all part of the fun)

Today spent a day giving all the running gear a cover of Por-15 Rust prevention paint, prior to the topcoat of a Por-15 Chassie black. I had stripped all the hammerite in the last couple of weeks, and i was amazed at how quickly the bare metal had reacted with the air to give a fine dusting of rust. Confirms my theory as to why i went with an AK kit, as it uses cast Jag running gear, not thin old Ford bits (just my opinion) I fail to see how a solid cast bit of metal (such as the Jag front wishboan would/could ever rot all the way through)



So all the bits were given another rub with a wire brush and this time a clean using "Metal Ready" from Frost.co.uk which is amazinly good stuff. The final drive was also prepped for paint.



Once cleaned they all need to be washed in clean water, I used boiling water as i'v been told it helps them dry quicker, but i also found my other half's hairdyrer also worked well haha.





I mounted most of the donor parts on a board to easy painting, and drying. Then on with the gloves (strongly recomended) and off we go with the paint brush. The initial finish looks a little rough but have been assured that after its left to cure it will become smoother, and this is just a coat to seal the bits so cosmetics doesnt rearly matter.





As you can see above the final drive and donor parts now have their base coat, and tomorrow i'll be finishing in chassie black Por-15, so will cosmeticaly look better and will hopefully be as good as finished prior to fitting to the chassie.

Also below is my Diff internals, after i had drained all the old oil. Crown wheel looks good no missing teeth (unlike me) and generaly a good looking Diff

More Donor Refurb

Ok well time is ticking away and the collection date of Feb is getting closer and closer. So Its about time i finished the running gear and final drive unit. After long and hard thinking i have decided against de-rating the diff, simply because I'm a strong believer in "if it isn't broke, don't fix it." I have spoken to many people regarding this and i can understand physically how it will be affected, but decided not to after speaking with Linda at AK. As she said, they have built hundreds of these kits and they have never needed to de-rate the diff for it to operate correctly. So that's good enough for me. Also it will be cheaper to buy a new diff and de-rate it at a later date should i have any problems... fingers crossed.

This is the diff before any cleaning or inspection.



So I've been stripping off all the hammerite again with the wire wheels, and getting ready to treat with the Por-15 chassie paint from Frost. This is amazing stuff (so i'v heard) so I'll keep you posted and will be taking some pictures also.

Got all my calipers re-con'd by bigred. I'v had these done a while now, but only just got pictures to post on here. I know the colour is a bit bright, however these will hardley ever see the light of day, as the rear disc's are inboard, and the front's behind the alloys. Its also a poly coating so when it comes to service and cleaning apparantly its a little easier. (i'll reserve judgment)



BMW steering column, with steering wheel (needed for the IVA, and key)



One of the most important bits... the V5, this will allow me to keep the age related plate, when i register my Cobra

Donor Parts Re-furb

All the donor parts will need a good refurb, their are many different finishes available, such as powder coat, hammerite, or Por-15 chassis paint. I have basically striped all my running gear down and given a good wire brush, then a quick coat of hammerite to stop any damage/rot. I intend prior to the chassis to strip all the hammerite off again and get the bits powder coated, however I’ll probably be waiting till I pick up the chassis, as the back wishbone's and drive shafts have to be shorted. Below is some of the front suspension set-up, stripped down to component form. It is important to remember the amount of shims removed from the upper ball joints, this is essential to set up the suspension correctly to eliminate bump steer.



The driveshafts (below) i'll just leave like i got them as they will be exchanged with AK for some shorter one's along with the rear wish bone's.

In order to strip the donor parts down to component form, you will need to remove the universal joints.... some of them are easy, some i found a total arse! the UJ's are held in place by circlips, i did have some circlip pliers however they were gash, so with the help of some little screwdrivers and my trusty hammer the UJ's were soon knocked out, ready for replacement.

Donor Parts

Donor parts are very easy to pick up, and are fairly cheap if looking in the correct places. The AK 427 uses mostly Jaguar XJS/6 running gear, however AK now also offer a generation 2 chassis using XJ40. I'm using the standerd chassis as i have XJS running gear.

Parts required to start building.

• Jaguar front axle
• Jaguar rear axle (compleat on subframe)
• Jaguar diff. (i have a 3.54 powerlock)
• Jaguar XJS handbrake assembly
• BMW E30 steering coloumn (including steering wheel and ignition key for IVA)
• Rover 25 brake servo and master cylinder
• VW Polo mk2 heater